Late in the evening and with dense fog obscuring the land, we approached the narrow rocky entrance to Fortress of Louisbourg.
Fortress of Louisbourg
The fortress was originally built by the French in the early 1700’s and, in 1745 was captured by the British. The two sides traded it back and forth a few more times before the British ultimately abandoned the fortress in 1785.
A portion of it has since been rebuilt, and it was under these reconstructed battlements that we dropped our anchor for the night.
Anchored outside the Fortress of Louisbourg
Cianan preparing to storm the gates of the fortress
This was our last stop in Nova Scotia and next morning found us threading our way back out through the rocky harbour mouth.
The 170 nautical mile crossing of the Cabot strait was cold, wet and windy.
Strong northerly winds prevailed all night making for an uncomfortable upwind slog.
But the next morning the sun came up on a calm sea, revealing Newfoundlands ironbound coast.
First sight of Newfoundland
Rocky cliffs rising hundreds of feet, broken up by deep fjords.
We anchored in deadman cove, which has to be one of the nicest anchorages we’ve been to.
Entering Deadman’s Cove
On one side there was a three hundred foot waterfall flowing down into the bay. On the other a little stream flowing through a landscape that looked like arctic tundra.
Anchorage at Deaman’s Cove
The climb to the top of the waterfall was hot work, so we stopped for a swim on the way back down.
At the top of the waterfall with Saumure anchored in the cove
Our next stop was Dennis arm. Dennis arm is a narrow offshoot of Facheu bay, and as we found out, not very accurately charted. Motoring into the narrow fjord green walls rose on either side with the occasional grey streak where a landslide had slid into the water.
Saumure motoring into Dennis Arm
As we neared the end of the arm the bottom rose rapidly and we found ourselves in the awkward situation of being in 6 feet of water with a 5 ½ foot draft!
Motoring up the creek at the end of Dennis Arm
A short walk up the creek at the head of the arm brought us to some pools and waterfalls where we went for a swim.
Cianan taking a shower
We spent the next couple of days working our way up the coast towards St Johns.
Crossing fortune Bay we were met with strong headwinds and thick fog, forcing us to take shelter on Burnett Island.
Saumure anchored in the thick fog in Mercer’s Cove Brunette Island
One of many ghost towns along the coast, the island had been abandoned 70 years prior and not much had survived the years. Caribou and arctic hare are the only full-time residents these days.
Cianan in Brunette island Mercer’s Cove ghost town
Brunette island caribou
Cianan holding dolphin skull Brunette Island
Callum in the fog Mercer’s cove Brunette island
We stopped in Corbine and St Marys before making our way around Cape Race.
Cianan and our first iceberg
As we rounded the cape we entered into the full force of the labrador current and the temperature dropped by 5°c. Pretty soon after we spotted our first iceberg!
That night we anchored under Spout falls in Aquaforte.
Spout Cove Aquaforte
A spectacular Anchorage, but with poor holding. I’m the morning the anchor started dragging and we found ourselves getting sucked in towards the waterfall. Needless to say we hastily upped anchor and got out of there!
Our next stop is Bay Bulls, just south of St John’s.